Time and Place travels: A historic bed and breakfast in Venice, antiques aplenty
Antiques, comfort, and warm welcome at Campiello Zen in Venice.
I’m in love with Italy, but I know she has many lovers with whom I must share her beauty. Particularly in her most sought-after city of Venice, where the level of splendor is almost unfathomable.
For a chance at having a more intimate experience in La Serenissima, it’s best to visit in shoulder season, when crowds die down, like I did in early November. Even better, to seek relief from tourist-heavy influence by staying in the Santa Croce sestiere, a neighborhood popular with locals and expats. It’s known for choice eating options, including ciccheti bars serving appetizing snacks in the Venetian tradition. With its endless winding side streets, small canals lined with the warm glow of bars and restaurants, and local campi where children play ball around old stone wells, getting lost is easy, and also a pleasure.
I spent my Venetian vacation week at Campiello Zen, a Renaissance palazzo lovingly transformed into a bed and breakfast by owners Andrea and Susanna, who have an apartment upstairs and a separate home nearby that they share with their two young sons. A private residence for over 500 years, the B&B is decorated with both family antiques and fanciful modern designs. Yet it’s comforting to return to this quiet, relaxing retreat in the evenings, after a day of sensory overload that comes with experiencing the fantastical wonders of Venice.
Come in for a tour.
Campiello Zen’s three guest rooms are positioned off of the main lounge area that opens to a balcony.
A lofted bookshelf area holds Andrea and Susanna’s collection of volumes on Venice and art.
Although the house is old, there’s an air of whimsy through unexpected colors.
In the mornings, Andrea is usually working at his antique desk, ready to answer questions, give local advice, make dinner reservations, offer rain boots for high water, and send guests off on their day with good cheer.
Evenings welcome guests back to the hotel with soft jazz piped into the lounge.
The Magnolia suite is designed with exposed beamed ceilings, antique copper vessels, and an ornate Murano glass chandelier.
A cozy spot for resting after a full walking day in Venice is both luxurious and essential.
Each room is spacious, with air conditioning (and heating, for chilly November nights), and updated bathrooms.
Andrea is happy to demonstrate how to operate an Italian moka pot. Alternatively, guests can use a breakfast voucher at one of two neighborhood bars.
When weather is warm, the caffè can be enjoyed on the flowering balcony.
Everything in Venice is special and remarkable, even the staircases.
The street is quiet, but the nearest Grand Canal vaporetto stop is around the corner, and the Venice train station is a few minutes’ walk away.
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